View topic - PARTS/WANTED/SEIZED ENGINE

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 1:36 pm 
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looking for springs that go on lights to help hold the chrome around the lights..
1925 DB Touring
looking for holder on front top of firewall for hood pin to sit in

any patterns for front and back doors

AND ANY IDEAS ON A POSSIBLE SEIZED ENGINE..PB BLASTER, DIESEL, TRANSMISSIONS FLUID, MARVEL OIL. ETC ETC..BRAND NEW ENGINE NEVER STARTED AND WAS FREE AT ONE TIME...HELP


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2020 10:30 am 
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The best penetrant I've ever found is a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. They don't mix willingly so give it a good shake before each use.
I've had great success with it in numerous applications.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 7:56 am 
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A newly rebuilt engine stored inside shouldn't be too badly stuck. It's probably a light surface rust on the fresh cylinder walls, most likely on the cylinders with open valves, (especially open exhaust).
Usually it takes a combination of torque and impact to free an a engine. If the engine is installed your only weapon is the hand crank. Try keeping a good strain on the hand crank while an assistant gives it a good smack. Don't be too brutal. If the engine is removed you may be able to get some leverage on one end and give it a good jolt on the other.
If all else fails remove the head, cut a thick piece of hardwood block to fit within the cylinders fairly closely and use that as a cushion to smack the pistons. You should be able to reuse the head gasket.
Good luck. Give me a report.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 2:49 pm 
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Thanks Nate...i have soaked the valves/pistons/ from the top after removing the spark plugs. approx two weeks with marvel oil/wd 40-pb blaster/and seafoam/....i decided yesterday to pull DB in 2nd gear at at first the wheels drug after popping the clutch a couple of times...it i'm sure turned over becasue i could hear a puffing sound for lack of a better description...and the fan turned ...i got back after a short pull and put back in garage..whew!!! up hill!!! and i can not turn the engine over with the crank and if trying to use the starter generator..short pressing on the starter seems to sound like it is trying to turn over..just a short noise..and same noise is present after i press quickly on the starter switch.. a model t man said pull it again in second around the block...please respond if possible..i would appreciate it before i start heavy drinking!!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:29 am 
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Miles;
If the engine has turned but is still that stiff the cause should be investigated before further forcing it. I'd like to know more about "the rebuild", length of time since it was rebuilt and in what environment it's been stored. If you know for a fact that it turned freely before storage then that's good and the trouble is most likely in the cylinders. The head is easily removed and by doing so you'll have a better idea of what you're dealing with and can hone the rust out if need be. if and when you fill the cylinders full of oil you should turn the engine over with the compression releases open or the plugs out to expel the oil.
I sent you my phone #s. Call if you want.
Nat


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 11:24 am 
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Thanks sir...next step remove head?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:08 pm 
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That's probably the best next move. If you hone/clean the cylinders most of what comes off will drip between the piston and cylinder. Don't try to blow it out with compressed air. Vacuum it out especially when pistons are all the way up. Put some Marvel or motor oil in the cylinders when the pistons start going down and wipe the crud off the cylinders when the pistons are down. Keep doing that until the film left behind looks clean.
If you put it in high gear and jack one rear wheel off the ground, turning that wheel by the outside of the tire will provide about 8 times as much torque as the same force on the hand crank.
Good luck.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 11:26 pm 
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Do not reuse the head gasket. They are designed to crush when tightened, supposed to have sealer on both sides. If it is reused the crush is gone. And I am not saying some people have not gotten away with reusing one. Do it right and buy a new one.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 7:06 am 
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Doug;
I would never ever reuse a head gasket on a modern engine, The official DB instructions say to replace the head gasket if necessary.
I would also never use sealer on a, (flat), head gasket except perhaps to doctor a defect around a water passage. If sealer had been used I wouldn't try to reuse the gasket.
I had it wrong as to turning the engine via the rear wheel. Instead of an 8-1 advantage it would be a 1-2 disadvantage. Sorry. I hang my head in shame.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 4:40 pm 
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Thanks sirs....head coming off soon...yes on rear wheel either one off ground provided a great more torque...other that blisters on left hand all worked...just seems like this Car is a pain...hoping for the best.....believe it or not now the clutch pedal needs adjusting ...any thoughts? as you can tell i am not a mechanic...but i am sure learning a hell of a lot..


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 4:56 pm 
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Romar and Meyers sell the "Mechanics Instruction Manual" for $25.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 10:40 pm 
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Miles;
Do not despair. Your car is 95 years old. What's another year or two to get it into usable condition?. Patience and perseverance is 99% of anything worth doing. Once you get it running you'll discover all it's suspension and steering faults. If you're lucky.
I think $25, (plus shipping), for the instruction manual will be money well spent.
I don't know the history or condition of your car. Cosmetics are are expensive and never ending. Mechanically your car is gosh darn simple.
I plan on preserving my car's body and making it mechanically sound. I'll leave cosmetics for the next owner.
I bought my car from a wonderful woman on her 89th birthday. Originally it belonged to her husband's grandfather. They had a number of rare, fully restored cars She told me that with this car "they let the kids use". I'm glad those kids weren't shredded by the plate glass windshield or wind deflectors.
My car needs all (12) spring bolts and bushings, king pins and bushing as well as tie rod bolts and bushings. Meyers prices are pretty reasonable but that still comes to about $1100.
As owner/operator/cheapskate of a machine shop I plan to make make all or most of those parts myself. If other people have need for those, (1924), parts I could make some extras.
Nat


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