View topic - Engine won't start after it is warm 1923 Touring Car

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 7:23 pm 
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I am new to the club. I have a 1923 touring car that I have done extensive work on to fix numerous problems. I am now at my wits end with my final issue. I can start my 1923 Touring car easily when it is cold. However, after it warms up and I shut it off it will not start again. Doesn't matter if it is 5 minutes later or half an hour. I get one or two cylinders to fire then nothing. If I keep cranking it floods. IT acts like it is either flooded or not getting spark. I have tried numerous things to try to pin point the issue: changed coil, cleaned carburetor, rewired car, among other things, with with no change. I read in a similar post that it could be a weak coil or condenser. I did install a new reproduction coil and rebuild condenser recently. I have swapped this coil for a new one from Napa with no change. I am wondering if it could be the rebuilt condenser. Any one have any ideas what could be my problem?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 9:35 pm 
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Does it shut down by itself or are you turning it off? When it happens is there spark at the plugs? At the points? Is there gas in the carb bowl? How long before it will restart?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 7:18 pm 
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Alex;
If it starts fine when cold but not when hot it's most likely too rich on the carburettor.
Back off, (anticlockwise), on the big screw with vertical grooves and try starting it with the throttle open fairly wide.
From memory, (not to be trusted), DB instructions are to make sure valves and timing are correct and engine is up to operating temperature. Put spark advance halfway down, back off on said adjusting screw until popping occurs when the throttle is opened quickly, turn adjusting screw clockwise until popping goes away. I can't remember if additional clockwise adjustment is any part of the instructions but will pass it on if I find any useful information.
If nothing else, try ht starting at full throttle with the fuel shut off.
Nat


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 9:42 pm 
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I think Alex says he is new to this. SO it would help him to answer a few questions before adjusting something that MAY fix it or not. That way maybe next time he could figure it out by himself. Many things can cause his description of what happens.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 11:31 am 
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Making sure the carburettor is properly adjusted is part of the process of elimination.
With the engine hot, shut the fuel off and run it until it stalls. Give it a TINY shot of starting fluid. If it fires up on that the problem is surely excess fuel. I am braced for a severe scolding for the suggestion of starting fluid.
Condensers are generally either good or not. I've never found one that worked intermittently. To test a condenser: Disconnect the leads and touch the leads of an analog ohm meter to the condenser casing and condenser lead. If the condenser is good the meter will jump each time the leads are reversed.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 3:12 pm 
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Thanks for the replies. The car does not shut off on its own. I have to turn the key off. Prior to turning it off, the car runs perfectly. When it won't restart I just let it sit overnight then it fires up no problem the next day. I did check for spark at the plugs, which it does have. Not sure if it is sufficient, but it is there. There is gas in the carburetor. I also tried shutting gas off to carburetor and running it out. Then turned on gas 5 minutes later and tried to start. Did the same thing, one or two cylinders fired then nothing. I will try the carburetor adjustment suggestion tonight. I've also tested the coil, the primary side tested at 2.2 ohms and the secondary side tested at 3,970 ohms. I assume that's fine as I have no spec's on it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 5:01 pm 
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If it has spark when it's hot I'd say you can rule out ignition.
If it's excess fuel the inside of the tailpipe will be a sooty black and, (when running), you should be able to smell some raw fuel in the exhaust.
After running it out of fuel, the best place to give it a shot of starting fluid might be into the vacuum line or fitting. If your engine has them, the primer cups could be used with gas or starting fluid
Good luck!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 8:22 pm 
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As suggested Nat, I did take a look at the carburetor. I reset the bell crank to the metering needle to what I think was slightly open and started the engine. I had popping and had to keep the engine running by pulling out the choke. I removed the bell crank and adjusted it to that point where the engine started to run better. I fine tuned it with the adjusting screw so it sounded like it was running well and let the engine get warm for 10 minutes at an idle. I shut of the engine for 10 minutes and when I tried to start it again it fired right up! I tried it two more times and it fired right up again. Just need to road test it tomorrow to make sure I am at proper temperature and the problem is gone. Thank you for your help. I was so fixated on an electrical problem that I overlooked this. I would also like to give George at Romar DP a shout out. He has been so helpful with all of this and never hesitates to give advice. He was the one who told me to adjust the metering needle.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 8:43 pm 
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Good news and happy motoring!
Ignition problems are seldom to never temperature dependent.
I've only had one conversation with George at Romar and he was indeed willing and able to give good advice.


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